Erdem Moralioglu, often synonymous with the art of dressmaking, sat in his London office sifting through his latest resort collection. “People tend to associate me with dresses,” he reflected. “But what’s fascinating is that, in my South Audley Street store, tailoring is just as sought after.”
This season, as he skillfully blended the two facets of his expertise, Moralioglu spent countless hours at the London Library, his go-to spot for inspiration. It was here that he stumbled upon the intriguing life and loves of Radclyffe Hall, the British lesbian author whose 1928 novel The Well of Loneliness sparked a scandal, faced an obscenity trial, and was ultimately banned. A particular photograph of Hall, with her cropped hair, dressed in a smoking jacket and bow tie alongside her lover, the sculptor and poet Una Troubridge, who donned a metallic 1920s cocktail dress, became the anchor for Moralioglu’s collection.
Understanding Moralioglu’s creative process, it’s evident that this deep dive into Hall’s world is just the beginning of what will shape his fall show. Much like his previous collections, where he paid tribute to figures like Deborah Cavendish, the Duchess of Devonshire, and Maria Callas, this exploration blends masculine tailoring with the flowing, draped silhouettes reminiscent of the flapper era, capturing both sides with equal precision and allure.
Beyond the thematic inspiration, Moralioglu’s designs remain rooted in a sharp understanding of what modern women seek for occasion dressing. His pieces exhibit a practical, yet romantic elegance that never feels overdone. Think draped dresses adorned with 3D floral appliqués, asymmetric capes fluttering over one shoulder, or tailored pieces where floral motifs appear as appliqués on a Prince of Wales coat or as prints on sharply cut skirt suits. There’s a nod to utilitarianism, too—a countryside-inspired look that’s perfect for the UK’s rainy spring, or perhaps even a dog show, a subtle reference to Hall and Troubridge’s shared passion for breeding and showing dachshunds and other pedigree dogs.
As Moralioglu’s mood board brims with forgotten images of women-only clubs and early 20th-century lesbian culture, one can sense that this exploration of hidden histories is just the beginning. “This is the sort of direction I’m going in,” he teased, offering just a glimpse of what’s to come.
