Pierpaolo Piccioli took a decidedly high-end approach for his pre-fall collection, showcasing a carefully curated selection of stunning everyday pieces. Each garment was exquisitely crafted with grace and realism, adorned with what he referred to as “indulgent embroideries.”
Following a spring show that boasted the impeccable craftsmanship typically seen in couture collections, the pre-fall collection maintained a luxurious aesthetic while dialing down the radical statement. Piccioli aimed to make the collection more covetable and credible, focusing on making the ordinary extraordinary. To achieve this, he incorporated a few couture techniques from the previous show, with the highlight being a high-relief cut-out intarsia adorning the back of a sharply tailored gray wool coat. This embellishment served not only as a visual attraction but also as a structural element that defined the garment.
Classic Valentino elements such as bows, roses, feathers, lace, and scalloped hems received an intriguing twist, straying slightly from convention while still staying true to the label’s core principles. The collection showcased sharp, masculine tailoring in dry wools and tweeds, primarily in timeless hues of slate gray. The expert cutting techniques elevated the pieces to atelier-level quality, while hourglass silhouettes and lavish crystal embellishments added a feminine touch. Adding to the contrasting theme of ordinary and extraordinary, a pair of sequin-studded XL “tourist bermudas” were paired with a crisp poplin shirt, and a trench coat featured a chic chinchilla trompe l’oeil motif or a bold archival civet cat pattern. A belted city coat boasted quivering feathers, and appliqué rosettes danced across a straight-cut ’60s duster in luxurious black leather.
The collection exuded an overall sense of luxury, which aligns perfectly with Valentino’s essence. However, Piccioli’s interpretation of luxury is refined and understated. While he acknowledges Valentino’s reputation for flamboyance and extravagance, he believes that the true value of luxury lies within the artistry and humanity involved in creating a superior piece. Piccioli emphasizes the importance of beautiful craftsmanship, even when working with humble materials. He clarifies that Valentino’s expressive ethos diverges from the concept of quiet luxury, as he sees fashion as a powerful medium for change and self-expression, free from clichés.
