In recent seasons, Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding embarked on a creative voyage that is both deeply emotional and driven by instinct. Their initial focus on shirting has given way to a more sculptural and expressive design language, all the while upholding impeccable craftsmanship. For spring, the duo delved into the notion of finding lightness in the aftermath of lost love—recalling memories with both affection and enduring sorrow. “We started developing these ideas during our own experiences of romantic loss, but this collection isn’t about dwelling on negativity,” said Harding during a preview. “While it’s tempting to navigate darker emotions in such situations, there are moments of joy in reminiscing about the happy memories—that’s what we aimed to convey with this collection,” added Palmer.
Joy emanated from the collection’s abundant use of flounce. Despite a predominantly muted color palette, there was a poetic subtlety that complemented the theatrical silhouettes. There were shoulder-baring mini- and maxidresses in poplin, striking a delicate balance between casual comfort and opulent drama. Elsewhere, ruched miniskirts and shirts, along with high-waist satin pants, possessed an enduring appeal suitable for a capsule wardrobe. The elegantly gathered satin floor-length dresses underscored the designers’ growing prowess in eveningwear—perhaps an area for further exploration, given their inclination to experiment with architectural forms. “It’s never about decoration; it’s more about the sculpture of it all,” Palmer emphasized.
Although Palmer Harding has expanded beyond its shirting roots since its inception in 2011, this collection’s button-ups felt particularly elevated. For instance, there was a showstopping floor-length gown crafted from pristine white cotton, boasting both volume and an airy feel. However, the true standout was the opening shirt, provocatively draped off the shoulder and adorned with dramatic flounces. Thanks to its crinoline edges, this piece maintained its structural integrity without feeling cumbersome.
