Walking around Venice feels like a dream. The impossible blue of the canals, the fine mist that sometimes hangs over the city, the experience of turning a corner and seeing an all-white church on an island of its own, or a spindly tree sprouting directly out of the lagoon, give the place a “wait, is this real?” quality that’s hard to shake. It’s also a city of contrasts: You can see Renaissance masterpieces in dark, moody churches or cutting-edge contemporary art on the repurposed grounds of a Byzantine shipyard, drink prosecco on the terrace of a Grand Dame hotel or sip plastic cups of Cynar spritz across the canal from a gondola repair shop. And although it’s notoriously easy to get lost, that’s part of the joy of discovery. You never know where you might find the next romantically crumbling palazzo, secret garden, or plate of perfect ciccheti.
Things to do
Grand Canal
The vaporetto (waterbus) lines plying the zigzagging Grand Canal double as spectacular cruises. Hop on the number 1 at Piazzale Roma or the station, and wiggle your way down past marble-clad palaces, each more ornate than the other, before sailing under the Rialto Bridge, past St Mark’s Square and the Doge’s Palace, and alighting at San Zaccaria.
Piazza Mancarco
Most visitors to Venice come for one thing only: the breathtaking, waterside St Mark’s Square. Have coffee in one of the chi-chi cafes outside (we recommend Quadri), visit the Basilica di San Marco, the church covered head-to-toe in glittering gold mosaics, and stroll along the Riva degli Schiavoni waterfront, for those classic lagoon views.
Palazzo Ducale
Overlooking the waterfront, this stunning palace – which was the seat of power for the ancient Venetian Republic — showcases an astonishing mix of artistic masterpieces and grand architecture, including the famous Bridge of Sighs. Take the Secret Itineraries Tour to get guided around the prisons and other rooms not otherwise open to the public – you’re then free to continue the rest of your visit alone.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Flora
Set at the bottom of a small alleyway on the designer drag off Piazza San Marco is this time capsule of a hotel, owned by the local Romanelli family. While the rooms are stuffed with antiques and the floors are typical Venetian terrazzo, it packs a luxury punch with Simmons mattresses, Rivolta Carmignani linens, and Ortigia amenities. Breakfast is served in the tiny courtyard out back, while the retro-style bar is the place to be after dark.
WHERE TO EAT
Quadri
By day, Quadri is known for its outdoor tables and inhouse orchestra serenading guests as they sit in St Mark’s Square. By night, though, this Venice institution – everyone from Lord Byron to Brad Pitt has stopped here – opens a Michelin-starred restaurant upstairs. Forget the food, straight from the Rialto market and the Philippe Starck-designed room, focus on the unparalleled view of that famous square from a secret angle.
